Thursday, March 22, 2012

What 5th Graders Wonder

Yesterday I was asked by one of the MUN coordinators to visit his fifth grade class.  I was happy to oblige. The kids weren't afraid to ask me a lot of questions. I thought some of them were pretty funny, others suprised me by showing how SMART these kids are. They seemed to know a thing or two about Alaska before I even got there - maybe more than some Americans! I mostly just put the funny ones here, though.

Q: Is it cold in Alaska?
A: Yes but only in the Winter. In the summer all the snow melts and we can wear t-shirts.

Q: Have you ever seen a killer whale?
A: yes (This made everyone very excited)

Q: Are there a lot of beautiful girls in Alaska?
A: I think so

Q: Have you ever felt an earthquake?
A: yes

Q: How big was it?
A: I honestly don't know

Q: Do you have a boyfriend?
A: No

Q: Did you ever eat an octopus?
A: Yes (kalamari anyone?)

Q: Did you ever eat a blue whale (someone knows their whale species)
A: No

Q: Did you ever eat any whale?
A: No (They found this very disappointing)

Q: Where else have you traveled?
A:  Mexico, China, France, Scotland, Canada, Switzerland

Q: Are there a lot of beautiful girls in Switzerland?
A: I think so

Q: Do you drink a lot?
A: Of course not
Commentary from the boy who asked: I think she does

Q: Have you ever been attacked by a bear?
A: Nope

Q: What's the difference between Turkish and American education systems? (okay, the teacher asked that one)
A: In America we get to choose all of our classes, unlike the Turkish system where the whole class goes from class to class together. Also, American students aren't focused on preparing for one big test like in Turkey and we get individual grades in each class which consider factors such as behavior, tests, and homework

Q: Is your hair natural? (asked by a very blonde little girl)
A: yes
Commentary: See guys? I told you! You can have naturally blonde hair! Her hair in natural like mine!

Q: Do you wear color contacts?
A: nope

Q: Do you like math?
A: no
Commentary: Good, me neither

My kind of girl.







Sunday, March 18, 2012

I wrote this a few months ago. I just found it now while I was unpacking.


I'll admit, my inner raging feminist cries out when we are segregated by gender for gym class.

"Different not wrong, different not wrong," I chant to myself, but I still cringe as the girls are arranged in a circle to pass around the soccer ball.  In the next field, I can see the boys are actually playing soccer.

I understand why we're doing it this way.  The boys are always playing sports: before school, after school, at lunch, in art class. It is obvious they are, as a whole, much better than the girls. It's not the decision to segregate the class that bothers me as much as the necessity to do so.

"Different not wrong" I remind myself as a girl goes inside crying after being hit by the ball.  Her reaction speaks to a lifetime of being taught that hers is the weaker, more delicate sex.  However, there is at least one girl who is, clearly, very talented at maneuvering the ball. There are no girl's soccer leagues here, so she hasn't received any formal training; but she kicks the ball up on top of her foot and to her knee where she tries to bounce it a few times. I wonder if she wishes she could actually play soccer. I wonder, without any female role models playing sports, if the idea even occurred to her.

"Different, not wrong"

But some things are wrong, and sometimes the line between different and wrong becomes hard to discern.  I've been faced with countless situations where I've wondered whether or not this line has been crossed.

"I would like to date an American boy" a girl my age said toward the beginning of my exchange.
"But not a black boy, I don't like black people."

"Oh?" is all I can manage is response
"Do you like black people?" she asks

I want to reply that I would never judge anyone based on there skin color

"I don't know" I reply, instead, looking down at my feet. What I mean is that I don't understand. I don't understand where this idea comes from. Why wouldn't you like a whole group of people based solely on the amount of pigment in there skin?

It seems here everyone has an opinion on "black people". There are girls in my class who say they would like to come to America specifically to date black people, that they don't like white boys.

I've wondered if, maybe, the "I don't like black people" comment meant simply that she didn't personally prefer the way dark skin looks. Like how some people might say they prefer brunettes to blondes or visa versa.

It's when I see how dark-skinned people are treated that I doubt this theory.

And it's when I walk down the aisle at a toy store and see only blonde haired blue-eyed dolls that I wonder what effect this difference is having on the next generation.

I've tried to imagine what it would be like growing up as an average Turkish girl; being told, whether overtly or subliminally that your skin color is ugly, and that you are weaker than the boys around you.  It would be different, but would it be wrong?

Below are my latest thoughts on this subject, written today. 

Over time, I've begun to suspect that this prejudice against darker skin is more nationalistic than racist.   Darker skinned people are, more likely than not, coming from out side of Turkey originally; even if "originally" is countless generations back in history. "Gypsies" and "Kurds" are two groups of people that, for whatever reason, it seems to quite socially acceptable to make broad disparaging comments about, and they both, generally, have darker skin than your average ethnically Turkish person.  Usually, Turkish children won't have friends in either of these groups. "Gypsies" are seen solely as beggars, tissue paper sellers, and garbage sweepers. Kurds are seen as strict, violent Muslim fundamentalists.

Really, this xenophobia isn't so much different than what we have here in America. I think the biggest difference is a lack of "Politically Correct" culture.  In Turkey, Rotarians and friends at school aren't shy to tell me what they think about "those people". In America, these conversations would be limited to close, like minded friends or anonymous internet boards.  The "political correctness" of America seems to baffle other countries, as I learned while talking to other exchange students on the bus.

"Is Eskimo a bad word is America like nigger?" I was asked by a boy from Germany

The girl sitting with me was of the opinion Eskimo wasn't bad at all.  As the resident Alaskan, I said that it would more polite to say "Native Alaskan"

"But it's not bad like nigger," I tried to explain, fully aware of how ridiculous I sounded "You should never say nigger, people say Eskimo all the time"

"But doesn't Eskimo mean 'raw meat eater'?" the boy continued. It was clear that the nuances of American political correctness didn't make any more sense to him then it did to me.

"Well, some native Alaskans call themselves Eskimos" I said remembering something my mom had told me from her experience as a nurse in bush Alaska; but of course I knew that some African Americans called themselves niggers. Both groups had come under persecution because of their race and both "nigger" and "Eskimo" have been used as insults, and now carry significant negative historical connotations.

"Just don't ever say nigger in America." I said, hoping to keep my friend from insulting anyone should his wandering take him to America.

I guess that really is the point of political correctness, not insulting anyone. In America, not making people feel bad is a much bigger deal than in Turkey. Conversely, there are plenty of other cultures where not insulting people is an even bigger deal than in America, and causing people to "lose face" is one of the worst things you can do.

To summarize, I've come to the conclusion, that Turkey really isn't more racist than America on average. Turks are just more honest about there feelings than most Americans.  Is it different, but not necessarily wrong.








Saturday, March 17, 2012

I have grand plans for a few better posts in the near future, but I thought I would do a quick update now.

I have moved into a new family, with a new record of one days notice before the move. I am very happy with them, however; and if my English gets worse, I now have the excuse of saying I am speaking almost all Turkish now. My new family doesn't speak English so now it's Turkish at home and school.

I had an exciting day today. I got to see Selimiye Mosque for the first time after almost six months of living here. I also got to see a very nice little park near my home I had no idea existed!  It has some beautiful fountains and a playground that kind of makes me wish my littlest sister was coming to visit me so she could use it.

And, finally. I leave you with this:

A week or so ago I made this to illustrate something I remember my first host mom doing when I first came here.  I'm wondering why I didn't caption it "How people drive down AN empty road", but perhaps my English was already leaving me.

Saturday, March 3, 2012

"Hey, Kyla. What are you doing?" Asli asked, peeking into my room this morning.
"I'm starting to pack" I answered
"Oh, are you leaving?"
I was a little surprised at this response, given I was pretty sure we had already discussed that I was moving out. "Sometime next week"
"You're packing a week early?" Asli asked disbelievingly

I just answered "yes"; but I wondered if she had ever tried packing up everything she owned and hopping off to an unknown place at an unknown date.

Actually, I'm begining to suspect needing loads of advanced notice before anything is a particularly American trait that I am having a hard time letting go of.

For example this morning, I called the president of my rotary club to see if he could tell me when or where I was going next week.  He didn't know.  "We are working on it" he said, in a voice that to me sounded rather mysterious and all powerful, a little like God would sound with a Turkish accent.

"Ok, no problem," I answered, overwhelmed by the power his voice exuded. It wasn't until after I hung up that I began to worry.  The American in me minutely examined details and possible things that could go wrong.

Then, I told the American in me to go back to where she came from, blew my nose (I have a cold), and started to pack

It's hard to believe I showed up here with one carry on, a personal item, and a piece of checked baggage smaller than my carry on.  Now I need one bag (safety pinned where the zipper broke) to hold all of my books; one bag to hold gifts, souvenirs, and out of season clothes; and I don't have anywhere to put all the stuff I am using on a day-to-day basis. Don't get me started on all of those fall/ spring jackets I have magically accumulated.

I've heard many times before that packing for switching families in harder than packing to leave for exchange. When I packed to come to Turkey, it was all about minimalization.  Will I really wear that? Will I really use that? No? Maybe? Not coming.

Now, it's either take it with me or throw it away. Do I plan on using blow up-squeaky-left-foot Santa anytime soon? No. Is he coming with me? No question about it. Same goes for giant-scarf-that-I-have-used-as-a-blanket and blue-tambourine-I-got-in-Istanbul.  (Hey! it was free!)

However there are a few things I'm leaving behind.

Among them is a bottle of Strawberry vinagrette, a small assortment of berry flavored tea bags, and some American coins.  These are gifts for an amazing host family I will miss very much.  I don't know what I will give to my next family, but I figured this family deserved all the gifts I have left (that, and I don't want to take them with me)

So, I'm not worrying. I'm packing and considering buying a new suitcase (really, this is inevitable) I can't wait for the next adventure!

This is just for fun. What happens when Asli and I make breakfast

Hmm.... maybe this is why no one wants me to start packing a week early.
Also good luck to my (real) sister Clare! she is competing in Canada at Arctic Winter Games. I'm betting she won't see this until after; but...... it's the thought that counts, right?


Sunday, February 26, 2012

I met with a friend after school a few days ago, and he suggested I watch this video on Turkish tea.  I suggest everyone reading this watch it. The clip has a short intro in Turkish, but the rest is in English.


Overall, I think the clips paints a very good picture of daily life in Turkey.  However, not all of the details apply to me particularly. For one thing, we don't even drink tea very often at my house; I might have a (tulip shaped) glass one or twice a week.  Also, I try to never click my spoon when stirring.  I find it annoying, and no one else really does it anyway.

One thing that caught my eye (ear?) particularly was the ending of the clip, when Turkey's potential for playing a larger role in peacekeeping in the middle east is discussed.  This is actually something I've been considering writing about for a while now, so bare with me.

It is obvious the middle east has had difficulty staying out of the news.  Whether it's discussion of Iran's nuclear capabilities or coverage of the ongoing riots in Afghanistan,  it's clear that many parts of the middle east have a lot of work to do before they can meet the needs of it's population and comply with international human rights laws.

There is a tendency to blame religion for these shortcomings. Many people in Western countries (Not just the USA) believe, consciously or unconsciously that Islam simply can't coexist with true democracy, equal rights etcetera. However, Turkey is one shining example of how this is possible. It is true that Turkey still has work to do in many areas (what countries don't?). Turkey is still developing, but it should be remembered that women gained full suffrage in Turkey before women in Spain, Canada, or France did (just to name a few examples).

How did Turkey manage this? Let's take a quick glance at histroy.

The Ottoman Empire was first described as the "sick man of Europe" in 1853.  After World War One, a number of Brittish attacks in the middle east eventually led to the Ottoman Empire's collapse. What happened next?

Interestingly enough,  I still have my essay from elementary school on "the sick man of Europe", but I was never taught what happened after the Ottoman Empire collapsed until I came to Turkey.  In my opinion, if we believe history repeats itself, it is a grave oversight that the average American doesn't know the name "Mustafa Kemal", the man commonly credited with single handidly founding the Republic of Turkey from the ruins of the Ottoman Empire.

If we studied Kemal's reforms (as Turkish school children do extensively), would we have a guide of how a country can transform itself without losing it's religious identity? Maybe a rough one, but we wouldn't want to follow it too closely.  The birth of Turkey was fraught with delivery pains; many people, minorites especially, suffered through unspeakable horrors to elevate Turkey to the place it is now.  Many would also argue that much of Turkey's religious and culural identity has also been sacrificied (or replaced) to make way for the Turkey of today.

So if we aren't to use Turkey as a blueprint, what is Turkey's role in reforming the middle east? Well, maybe, if Islam isn't the problem, it could be the solution.  I'm not a political analysist (sound familiar?) , but I wonder if Turkey could act as a mentor to some of it's neighbors, using Islam as common ground to fuel brotherhood and good will. Turkey has already proved how the common bond of Islam can be used between countries for great good. Just take a look at this example in Somalia.

Granted, there are many obstacles to be faced before this idea could become reality.  First of all, the rampant prejudice against "Arabs" and more conservative muslims would have to be addressed.  Also, I believe that Turkey would have to take a more critical view of it's own history before it could try and repeat it in other countries.

What can America and other developed nations do to help? First of all, we can address our own prejudices against the middle east. We could start by realising that we are not fighting a holy war, but attempting to raise up mankind as a whole.  Maybe if Turkey could see the west embracing all people, regardless of race and religion, Turks would be inspired to do the same.  Secondly we can closely scrutize Turkey's history, paying special attention to the construction of the republic, noting both it's successes and failures without bias.  Turkey's history could be very important in reconstructign the middle east. Hopefully, if the truth (or the closest we can come to the truth) of Turkish history became common knowledge in the world, Turkey would embrace both it's successes and downfalls, learn from them, and use them (along with Islam) to create a stabler, more peaceful middle east.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

I have a bad habit of imagining situations will be worse than they actually end up being.  Some might thing it's a good thing, you know, "plan for the worst, hope for the best" However, for me it just ends up with a lot of needless worrying when I could have been sleeping or studying or something. Such was the case with David's much anticipated visit to my school.

Edirne's exchange students 
David is a pretty chill dude, but he is also one of the best Turkish speakers in the program. As one boy at my school described it today "He's like a machine gun bam bam bam bam bam." Let's just say I didn't need the comparison.  

I dreaded my classmates discovering it really is possible to speak Turkish in five months. I dreaded constantly being compared to David. And both of those things happened. But it really wasn't bad at all.

In fact, I would credit David with my "click" moment. That fabled day spoken in whispers among exchange students. That hour when you decide to open your mouth and talk, and all of a sudden all of that time spent silently studying seems worthwhile.  All of the sudden, I was making sentences! Having conversations! I am well aware I sounded like a four year old, but as one boy put it "I like your pronunciation, it isn't right, but I like it." 

I was still no where near David's level, and yes, I was constantly reminded how amazing David's Turkish is.  I won't say I never got a little bit annoyed with that, but my school life  got a lot better. Not only was communication better, I now had something to talk about with all of my female classmates.  "No, I'm not dating David. No, I'm not interested. Yes, I will tell him hello from you next time I see him." 

Another thing I got from David: his flashcards. I'm pretty sure I was supposed to get them back, but David's back in Istanbul now, and I need them  more than he does.  




Monday, February 6, 2012

While staring in awe at probably the hundredth ionic column of the Western Anatolia tour , I remember the trip I took to Scotland when I was eleven and how my mother had to force me out of the bus (I was reading) to see the standing stones.

  I'm so glad she did. I'm even more glad I no longer need anyone to force me to  get out and walk through the skeletons of past civilizations.

For ten days last week, I was immersed in history.  I was introduced to necropolises, acropolises, and agoras. Better yet, I know what all those words mean now.  I don't think I have ever enjoyed walking through history this much.  Stories seem to come to life as you realize that people completely forgotten to history were born, raised, and buried around the same scenery you are enjoying at that very moment.



Necropolis at Pumukkale


Stadium at Aspendos
Hot Springs at Pamukkale


My first glimpse of the 
Mediterranean

My new favorite word is Agora! 

Possibly my favorite place we visited: theater at Aspendos


Bodrum Castle by the Mediterranean 

Appolo's temple

Church of St. Nicholas




Of course the tour was amazing, but my favorite part of my winter break was the five days I spent at my friend Jane's home in Istanbul. I had a good time shopping, seeing movies, and going paintballing! (my computer says that's not a  word) However, it didn't matter what we did. As long as we were together (Me, Jane and her host brother) we were having a good time. those crazy kids even made bus rides fun! 

The highlight of the whole trip for me was the last day. I wanted to see the Grand Bazaar and Jane's host Mom wanted a special type of coffee so we went to one of the more touristy parts of Istanbul. At first it wasn't so much fun. We went to the most crowded square I've ever been to... I won't even try to explain how crowded it was.  Despite all difficulties we got the coffee and walked to Sultan Ahmet square. Jane's host brother bought everyone salep and we watched the sun set. It was suggested we visit Sultan Ahmet Cami (The Blue Mosque). I wasn't that excited. The first time I went there it had been very hot adn crowded and we were rushed through. I also felt strange going in to a working mosque as a tourist.

This time, however was completely different.  The minarets were lighted up for the evening and the atmosphere around the mosque was very calm.  Unlike last time, there was no line to get in and there was no hurry as we took off our shoes and Jane and I put on blue headscarves given away at the entrance. Once inside we looked around and took pictures, but we didn't want to leave.  "Let's sit down" Furkan suggested. so we all sat in silence and admired the beautiful blue tiled ceiling the mosque was named after.  

We ended up talking about religion (you couldn't have chosen a better back drop) and I left the mosque feeling this was an excellent end to an excellent winter break.